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2001 Vallée Noble Sylvaner

The Brotherhood of Saint Etienne has just published its 2003 honours list of "seal-holders of Alsatian wines". The learned assembly, renowned for its bacchanalian pomp and its proselytism of the wines of Alsace, is also the organiser of a contest. The standard is high, and the award, the "seal", is not easily won. The bottles are devoutly stored in the wine cellars of Kientzheim Château. The honours list serves also as a reference guide. Five Sylvaners feature in the 2003 edition. Proof that this little-loved Alsation varietal does have its supporters.

Among these is Seppi Landmann, known for his baroque wines, but also for his Sylvaners "Cuvée Z" and "Hors-la-Loi". The Soultzmatt wine-maker explains that this seal-winning 2001 Vallée Noble came from a vineyard close to Pfingstberg, and from a reasonable yield. The colour is a clear yellow, the nose delicately combines exotic fruits, the scent of flowers, and the flavour, common to the varietal, of  milky brioche. The palate is supple: an initial mist of fruits of the South and fruit drops, with mineral and bitter almond flavours in the finish. A fine summer wine which will also complement traditional cooking in any season.

Issue 9 (March to May) page 57 :

Seppi Landmann, cantor of Zinnkoepflé

It is not easy to sketch a portrait of so emblematic a figure. Seppi's debonair silhouette and florid beard roam all over this region, where he is known as the white wolf! His wines are his passport, and their quality is his entry permit. But it is others who do the real travelling: his visitors come from all corners of the earth to taste the precious nectars which he concocts, and which you have to earn the right to taste. We were judged deserving, and were thoroughly spoiled: he brought out 28 wines for us, including a 1998 ice wine, barrel-matured in the Jura style, in a sumptuous vertical tasting going back to 1982, the year of his arrival at the estate! (...)

Having arrived in his Vallée Noble 20 years ago, he has not stoppped improving on that which he found here. He was part of the rebirth of Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru, and thanks to him, the wines can proudly show their character and uniqueness. It is he, too, who, twelve years ago, was the first to bring ice wines back into favour. (...)

What we liked :

2000 Vallée Noble Vendanges Tardives (Late Harvest): rich but fine, delicate, generous and sensitive, like its maker!

2000 Zinnkoepflé Riesling Grand Cru: mineral, dry, with a vivacious palate. A wine which strikes a balance between finesse and richness. Very seductive.

Issue of September-October 2002 :

1996 Tokay Pinot Gris Great Classified Zinnkoepflé (19 €) :

Zinnkoepflé means "head in the sun" and, indeed, it has a golden hue, and the palate offers hints of pear and a trace of residual sugar. The combination is exotic (it is suggested that one serve the wine with glazed veal breast and carrots). This Tokay would also be superb with creamed chestnuts or a creamy goat cheese.

Marlène Vendramelli (Wine waiter at the Hotel Bristol in Paris)

Special Issue (November 2002) :

2000 Riesling Vallée Noble (6,40€) :

The 2000 Vallée Noble Riesling reveals minerals in the nose, complemented by subtle hints of smoke and citrus. This elegance carries through to the palate, the wine being supple and rounded at first, with a lovely oiliness enveloping a beautifully aligned structure. It is not exuberant, but is very clean, with a lingering persistence in the finish. Serve with almond trout.

Sylvaner Cuvée Hors la Loi 2000

Acacia honey characterizes the nose of this wine and despite its extraordinary density succeeds in bringing together delicacy and power. This Reserve supported by good acidity, is close to a late harvest wine; it has kept its elegance and developed a fresh aftertaste.

Sylvaner, old vines, Reserve Z 2000

Z for Zinnkoepflé, a great classified growth area, is in both the counties of Soultzmatt and Westhalten, which due to their exposure and their altitude concentrate and amplify the grape variety. The colour of the wine is deep yellow, its nose is honey, the palate is powerful, but still with aroma of honey, and maintains a complexity over its full tasting length. A wine that will improve with age.

Le Domaine Seppi Landmann’s winery

To see and hear him, you could never imagine what a demanding wine maker he is in his own wine making cellar. When perfection is not reached he simply downgrades the bin, without even a second thought. The best expression from this wine artisan is to be found in his Zinnkoepflé gewurztraminer or late harvest riesling which are both models of precision.

Zinnkoepflé noble rot great classified Gewürztraminer, 1989

An intense golden yellow. Marked by its georegion, rose petal nose, licorice, saffron and cinnamon overtones. Full bodied, stylish with good smooth acidity.

This is perfection. A bottle that is rare and almost impossible to find! Start opening it in 2002, open an hour before serving. Serve in a decanter at 12° C. Maturity in 2006.

Grade: 19/20

Zinnkoepflé great classified Riesling, ice wine, 1990

A superb golden yellow. A nose of quince and yellow cherry plum heightened by a touch of peach and mineral aromas. Powerful attack and fresh and lively on the palate with fine fruit. An everlasting aftertaste. A rare nectar that can hold its own with a great sauterne. A magnificent bottle.

Maturity in 2005, open an hour before serving. Serve in a decanter at 13° C with a grilled veal cutlet and chanterelle mushrooms or alone just for its own sake.

Grade: 14/20

Zinnkoepflé great classified Riesling, 1992

Color: Greenish tints on a yellow background. Complex nose of flowers, grapefruit slowly evolving towards more mineral overtones. The palate follows the harmonious and well balanced nose.

A great classified growth that is typical of its variety and georegion and has good potential. Seppi Landmann is a leader in the Noble Valley, his wines are remarkable. Ready for drinking in 2001. Maturity in 2004. Serving temperature: 13° C.

Grade: 17/20

Zinnkoepflé great classified Riesling, 1996

Fine brilliant yellow with sunny tints, bewitching and open nose with elegant quince and grapefruit aromas. An ethereal palate with average sweetness. Mineral freshness. Average aftertaste.

There is more nose than palate, but the overall effect is delicate. A delicious and superbly balanced wine.

This passionate and generous winemaker offers futures buying.

Drink before 2030, open 1/2 an hour before serving. Serve in a decanter at 8° C with a quince pie. Grade: 17/20.

Zinnkoepflé great classified late harvest  Gewürztraminer, 1989 ****(*)

The nose brings together roses and aniseed with a touch of garlic due to its age. The attack on the palate is concentrated with perfectly integrated sugar (only 30g). The aftertaste is long and fresh. This lovely example of late harvest is well balanced and appeals by the elegance of its crystallized fruit as well as the firmness of its flavor. It can be drunk for years to corne either atone for itself or with lobster and a touch of vanilla.

Zinnkoepflé noble rot Tokay-Pinot gris, 1996 ****

An expressive nose mixed with grapes, crystallized fruit, honey and smokiness. The complex palate seems to be well structured and long with pure well integrated noble rot. This beautiful, dense, well structured and powerful wine will provide superb drinking for the next ten years to corne for those who have the good idea to put it in their cellar.

Zinnkoepflé noble rot Riesling, 1997 ****

A nose that is fresh and pure where aniseed is mixed with crystallized fruit from good noble rot.

The attack seems quite dense, the follow up well balanced with tropical fruit that lasts. The clean Riesling taste is matched with the power of noble rot. Moderate cellaring, to be drunk in the next five years.

Le Nouvel Economiste

(N°1127, May 1999)

Less well known and often an excellent quality/price ratio, the sparkling Alsace wine has made its remarkable entry on the market of sparkling wines. Worthy of his Alsace origin, the Rabelaisian Seppi Landmann produces the best Alsace sparkling wine thanks to long aging in horizontal stacks after bottling. The sumptuous 1987 is only marketed in magnums which is just fine for a dinner for two!

La Revue du Vin de France

The white wine treasures of Alsace (12/1999)

Seppi Landmann: Noble Valley dry sparkling wine.

Its nose is an array of exotic aromas. The palate is constructed on solid extract and pleasant fruitiness. In short, this sparkling wine does not lack personality.

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